Kenmore Dryer Takes FOREVER to dry

[mnmconn]

Kenmore Electric Dryer Mod 110.62942100.

All of a sudden started taking a LONG time to dry -- load that used to take 30 mins, now not dry after 2 hrs.

I read the forums, and was guessing it was an airflow problem. This morning I disassembled the dryer air path and thoroughly cleaned it as well as removing all the lint from inside the dryer cabinet. I cleaned the outside vent, and replaced my flexible hose to connect the dryer to the house venting w/ a rigid universal elbow. Then I put everything back together and tested the airflow outside...it feels about the same strenght as what is coming out of the dryer when I have nothing connected to it. NET: I am relatively certain its not an airflow problem at this point.

Threw in a load of clothes on high heat, timed dry. 95 minutes later, still wet, and relatively cool. What next?

[Pegi_at_Sams]

This is a Whirlpool DOTT dryer, meaning Dryer of Tomorrow Today and is more problem that it is worth, since so much can go wrong with these. You need to pull the vent hose off , put a thermostat in the air flow and see what temperature the exhaust temperature is coming from the vent. Should be around 150* or so on high heat. Sounds like the element may not be staying on if the vent is clear and good air flow from the dryer. In the drum there are moisture sensers that can go bad, there is a safety thermostat that can be damaged, in the console you have a microcomputer that could be defective, and there is a heat relay and a motor relay in the console. The first thing to do is find the 2 relays in the console. When the heating element shuts off see if it is cutting off on the heat relay, you should hear a click, will be the one on the left facing the dryer, this relay is known to fail. To test this the easy way, with the dryer unplugged, reverse the wires on the motor and heat relay, they are identical, then plug the dryer back in and see if it heats normally now. If the heat now starts staying on you know to replace the heat relay. If everything checks ok you might need the microcomputer, but suspect this heat relay first.

[mnmconn]

Called the local appliance service guy today (to heck w/ Sears, wanted to wait a week). He came out this afternoon and replaced the element, but to no avail. Measured the exhaust temp at ~160 after replacing the element -- I'm not convinced the element needed replacing, but he did it. He said he was not going to bill me till the thing works, so seems honest, but still easter egging the problem a bit.

Results after element replaced. Load of towells w/ heat on HOT, using the "Evenheat" setting, 2 hrs into it they were still wet and didn't seem hot. Wife was going to try timed dry tonight...hopefully that eliminates the dependance on the humidity sensor.

I'll likely be calling him tomorrow.

Another question...my home is pretty new, the vent is permanantly installed using 4" rigid galvanizded ductwork. It runs approx 25 feet, maybe 30, and there are 4 elbows in it. According to the owners manual, this is no issue. My service man said that was too long...thoughts? I know when we first installed this new dryer, it dired towells in about a half hour, nothing new in the venting since then (other than I cleaned it out).

[Pegi_at_Sams]

The element was never the problem, it works or it does not. Do not let him charge you for this part. Long vents and elbows kill the heat circut. Have you tried running the dryer with the vent hose off and the dryer pulled out??? You could have a blockage in the house vent or the vent housing in the dryer. I still think you have a problem with the heat relay in the console or the even heat control board. Have him try the relay first as they have known problems.

[mnmconn]

Running a load of the (same) towells now, vent disconnected and dryer ~18" from wall. 50 Minutes in towells are still wet (went w/ Timed dry cycle). Gonna let it run till they get dry, but I remember when we first got this dryer, it knocked out towells in about 40 minutes.

Beginning to agree w/ you that its controls, high thermostat cutout switch, or something like that.

[Pegi_at_Sams]

Yes, put you a thermostat in the vent of the dryer where the vent hose attaches and see what the heat cycles at. When the dryer is first turned on the element will stay on for a good long time till the load starts getting dryer. If that element only stays on a minute or so and clicks off something is causing it to cut out too soon. LIke the heat relay or a thermostat.

[mnmconn]

Well, followed the technical tip sheet from the console and debugged the probelm to the 5 position temperature select switch, P/N 3399643. Continuity check did not match the table in the tip sheet. Tomorrow its off to my friendly appliance store for a new switch (looking online, it appears to be about $50) seems kind of high, but what are you going to do? I am going to tell the repair man that I refuse to pay for the element or the service call since he didn't fix the probelm and I found it on my own. I'll purchase the switch from him to make it fair, does that sound reasonable?

[Pegi_at_Sams]

He needs to not charge you for the element and allow him to remove his new one and reinstall yours. As far as not paying him for the service call, you might suggest this but would not press the issue as you may need him in the future. These dryers are very hard to diagnos so I would not fault him too much, and if this new temp switch does not solve the problem you may need him to come back out. Would advise keeping it light and friendly or you might get stuck with a lot of parts you do not need. Do tell him you should not have to pay for the new element and please re-install yours, and suggest you two come to an agreement as to charges after the dryer is working.